Treating Discoloration of the Skin
Hyperpigmentation can show up in skin as age spots, sun spots, liver spots or darkened skin caused by acne scarring. Pigmentation in the skin is determined at the cellular level. Melanocytes are the cells that make melanin, or pigment in the skin. All people have the same total number of melanocytes. The role of melanin in the skin is to filter out dangerous ultraviolet radiation from sunlight and protect the uppermost skin cells from damage. Melanin also appears as skin is healing from inflammation from blemishes, burns or bruises.
Treatments for acne and anti-aging can be addressed through prescription or over-the-counter retinoids (Vitamin A products), benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid (0.5 to 2.0% concentration), and glycolic acid (10% to 20% concentration). It is important to use lower concentrations of these ingredients initially. Excessive drying or irritation can create pigmentation problems. Also, treat acne early and ongoing to reduce the inflammation response by the melanocytes which cause acne scarring.
When clients are concerned with darker pigmentation, we recommend looking for hydroquinone (2% concentration over-the-counter), mequinol, azelaic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, soy, vitamin C, licorice extract and niacinamide. If the hyperpigmentation is severe, a physician can prescribe a 6 to 10% concentration of hydroquinone. These ingredients are most effective and reliable when packaged in tubes or pumps since exposure to air can oxidize them.
Moisturizers are an extremely important component for people with darker skin color who struggle with pigmentation issues. Patients with darker skin types often develop a gray appearance to their skin when it is dry. In fact, some studies suggest that transepidermal water loss is greater in black patients. In more severe cases, moisturizers with ingredients such as lactic acid or salicylic acid are most effective.
Now that we have highlighted ingredients that work well with hyperpigmentation conditions, check out these popular home care products:
- DDF Fade Gel 4 provides Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids, Hydroquinone and Kojic Acid to create brighter and more even-toned skin.
- iS Clinical Super Serum Advance+ uses 15% stabilized L ascorbic acid to effectively reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, stretch marks and scarring while evening out your pigmentation and brightening the complexion.
- Keep skin moisturized and protected from sun damage with Dermalogica's ChromaWhite TRx Pure Light SPF 30.
- Obagi C Rx Clarifying Serum for Dry Skin, or oily skin blends the brightening and lightening benefits of Hydroquinone with the powerful results of the antioxidant Professional-C Serum 10%. WOW!!
- Murad Age Spot and Pigment Lightening Gel combines Hydroquinone, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Licorice and Allantoin to fade spots and freckles while sloughing off damaged cells.
